CONTENTS
Anchor Winch for CS27
Boat Info
Request
Bottom Blisters
Circuit breakers
CS36
CS with new
bottom
CS22
CS27 Anchor
Roller
CS30 cabinet
removal
CS30 hull speed
CS36 Misty Gray
CS36 Shaft
Seals
CS36
wilcox-crittendden head
CSOA Request
for Info on Manuals
Dual headstay on a
CS30
Feathering
maxi propellor group purchase
Feathering
propellor
Inner forestay
Lifeline stanchion
base
Listserv
Mast noise
One Third Share in
CS36
Propane Tank
Props for a CS34
Quanta Question
Request for CS36
Info
Rowing Tenders
Suggestion for the Nautically Obssessed
at Christmas!
Teak oil
question
The Thousand
Islands
Welcome to AIM
V Drive coupling
Very nice
Winter Boat
Covers |
The Thousand Islands
12/9/97
Dear CSOA Members:
We keep our CS33 at the Trident Yacht Club near Gananoque, Ontario, Canada,
smack in the middle of the Thousand Islands at the east end of lake Ontario.
It is nature's paradise with scenery, clear water (I can see eight feet down
when moored at my slip) , excellent winds and sunny weather. If you want
to experience paradise this far north, come and see us, and be sure to stop
in and spend a few days at Trident Yacht Club, the friendliest club in the
Great Lakes.
Maurice Marwood, CS33 "Bonnie Skye" call sign: CFH5808.
Maurice Marwood
memarwood@netaxis.qc.ca |
Replies
My wife and I are buying a CS36 which we plane to sail from Duluth to Kingston
this summer. We will leave Duluth on July 1 and plan to arrive in Kinston
during the second week of August. Any pointers you can give us on where to
stay in the Kingston area, where in the area we might be able to leave our
boat for winter storage and what's fun to do cruising the thousand islands
would be very much appreciated. Thanks in advance, Fritz Franzen, Ames, Ia.
Dear Fritz;
You would enjoy a day or two in Kingston at the Confederation Basin Marina.
It is very nice but busy and active. Many other smaller, less active marinas
in the area with good depth for your boat. Confederation Basin is within
walking distance of downtown which is worth a walk around. There is an
information kiosk right at the harbour. Fort Henry is there from the days
of the war of 1812.
Kingston is within an hour or two's sailing of the heart of the Thousand
Islands, and about two hours from our club at Trident and Ganonoque. You
will love it at that time of the year. Plan to spend a day or two at Kingston,
a day or two at our club or at Gananoque, and a day or two anchoring out
amonst the islends, depending on your preferences. There are many quiet,
peacful anchorages if that is what you prefer. Get a local map in Kingston,
or any good provincial map store and they will identify many choices. If
you get to a good Chandlery buy the "Port's Book" for the area. It will tell
you all that you need to know. Just be sure to respect the bouys because
the waters are unpredictable, yet beautiful. The "Port's Book" alerts you
about what to watch for, where to anchor, how to get there, what to see,
where to eat, etc.
There is a good marina for winter storage at Iroquois Marina, a small place
about one days sail/motor down river from Gananoque. We have kept our boat
there for the last three years and have been satisfied. When you get to Kingston,
ask around and you will get losts of free advice on the subject. It is an
interesting down river trip, and up river trip in the spring. Some of us
take two days and stop for an over night at Brockville, especially coming
up river against the current and the wind in the spring. A good time to plan
for launch and going up river to the Thousand Islands is the first weekend
in May; it may be warm or cold depending on the year, but tolerable either
way.
One can spend many years in the Thousand Islands and still not do it all
or see it all and sail it all or anchor it all, etc. Hope to see you next
summer. If you have any more questions, please e-mail. A CS36 is a perfect
boat for the region. |
Bottom Blisters 12/15/97
OK LIST-SERVE DO YOUR STUFF, ANYONE HAVE ANY EXPERIENCE PRO OR CON CONCERNING
REPAIR OF BOTTOM BLISTERS??
I have many small blisters on bottom of my CS33 and have come to realize
it is quite common. The boat has been out of the water for one year and bottom
has been sandblasted, gelcoat is still intact and some blisters opened and
some did not. Have started sanding the gelcoat and many of the bumps sand
away to a smooth surface. QUESTIONS:
1) Has anyone had blisters return after smoothing and epoxy sealing? Whatever
open blisters there are I will fill before coating.
2) What brand of coatings have been used? I am aware of four products: West
System Epoxy, VC Coal Tar Epoxy, Interlux 1000-2000-3000, and Barrier System
Resins.
Best Winds,
Anton & Shirley
CS33 "Kokopelli" |
Replies
I'm not and expert on this subject. I just have a small amount of experience
and some hearsay "knowledge". Same for my '85 CS30 with recent bottom job.
There were about 15-20 detectable blisters, none larger than 0.5 inch. Shop
that did the bottom said it was not at all bad, compared to most boats they
see. I've heard that some blisters will flatten out as the boat dries, but
can then return when the boat is put back into the water. I understand it
is best to try to open all suspected blisters with the corner of a putty
knife. My boat's previous owner had the bottom epoxied with Interlux 2000
at the last bottom job, which was in Oct 1994. There were a few small blisters
repaired at that time. I don't know if the blisters I saw at the bottom job
just completed were new or returns, but evidently blisters can happen after
a barrier coat is applied. We repeated what had been done before, for lack
of a better plan:
sand off ALL old VC17
grind out any blisters
wash down with acid (don't know what they used)
fill blisters with (I think) VC Watertight
four coats of Interlux 2000 epoxy barrier coat
two coats of VC17 paint, three at the waterline
Note: Interlux 1000 is the thing when the old gelcoat has been peeled all
the way down to the underlying layup. The 2000 is for application over the
gelcoat. That is why any ground out blisters were filled with something besides
2000.
I think Interlux must now own, or at least distribute, VC. I saw
VC products info on the Interlux website, looked like it was an in house
product. I think the URL is www.interlux.com
One thing that I wonder about is the drying out. Several folks say to let
the boat stay out of the water until the hull shows a certain level with
a moisture meter before applying the epoxy barrier. We didn't see any blister
that appeared to go far into the layup, plus we wanted to go sailing, so
we just had the boat out for about ten days while they did the bottom. Time
will tell, but that is typical for this area. This is warm fresh water where
the boats are in all year long.
Just another data point: we also had the hull and deck polished, buffed and
waxed along with the bottom job. Total cost, including 8.25% tax was about
$1970 US. I think the polish/buff/wax added about $300 to that total; but
I don't remember exactly, and I don't have the paperwork here with me.
Cheers,
Charlie
CS30 "Sprite"
Well, I guess somebody had to bring up the ugly topic of boat pox. Allow
me to add my rather lengthy experience. Like most, I researched the subject
to death everytime a nautical publication came out with an opinion. But it'll
never happen to me!! In the fall of '94 I decided 13 years of bottom paint
on my CS36 (7 years of it was mine) was enough. I elected to remove it with
Peel-a-Way (an other story if you like) which took the surface down to the
gel-coat. What I saw was the dastardly pox covering various areas to varying
degrees. Mine were mostly small pin head size, with the occasional dime sized
one. None larger except for the rudder which had a few quarter sized ones.
I called in a surveyor and a yard for their opinion. Both felt it was a rather
mild case of the pox, that it was not structural, would not hurt anything,
but would not go away. Since I now had a nice clean bottom and could not
bear the thought of pox on it, we (my financial advisor) decided to go the
complete epoxy repair route. I selected a long standing yard based on previous
work completed and price. Their method would be to take moisture readings,
sandblast almost all the gel coat off (anymore would require expensive fairing),
allow to airdry, check periodically with moisture meter and then epoxy seal
it. After reading ALL the Practical Sailor articles several times, I was
convinced that I wanted their solution of 20 mils of either WEST EPOXY or
INTERPROTECT. My yard replied that if we went to that extent you'd have a
plug to make a mold. His proposal was to apply 3 coats of approximately 2
mils each of S 1 sealer made by an INDUSTRIAL FORMULATORS in Vancouver, BC.
We compromised on 5 coats of S 1 as my choices would have added $2000. to
the bill. To my surprise the bottom dried out in about 4 weeks of a typical
northwest fall. I, of course monitored the readings and was somewhat skeptical.
It was explained as blistering in the gel coat but not yet in the laminate.
Because the bottom was clean I did not feel the need to do a spring haul-out
in '95. That fall I had a sailor/diver friend scrub clean the bottom. He
reported lots of blisters forward of the keel and a few elsewhere. I called
him every name and said he wouldn't know a blister if he saw one, etc. After
I calmed down about 4 months later, an appointment was made at the yard to
inspect. There were certainly lots of blisters!! It was determined they were
dry, no moisture whatsoever. The yard talked with the epoxy manufacturer
and felt the these blisters were in the epoxy only and caused in the application
process - the epoxy was applied by roller in relatively cold weather. Now
this yard applies S 1 by sprayer only. I suspect the yard knows the real
cause behind the second case of blistering. Of course, this was covered by
warranty "as long as I'm here". They told me that he had done about 130 blister
repair jobs with about 6 boats returned for more repair.
The real moral to the story is that in spite of what you may think "there
is life before and after blisters". That life is just to be spent on a sailboat.
Regards,
Dick Duffley
There is an excellent Canadian magazine called DIY Boat Owner that has excellent
info concerning your problem in one of the back issues. You can get all the
info about the magazine at www.diy-boat.com, or call 888-658-boat, or fax
905-847-3490. It is the best of all the magazines for practical help about
everything - real life examples of how to do it by real people like you and
I. Good Luck. Here in Montreal and on Lake Ontario we have about a four month
season so we all envy you folks further south. My CS33 is 10 years old and
no sign of any blisters yet (knock on wood). But then again, with a four
month season it is really only about 3 years old in terms of usage. It was
one of the last ones built, and has a Volvo 2003 engine. Happy Holidays!
from CS33 "Bonnie Skye"
Maurice Marwood memarwood@netaxis.qc.ca
DIY magazine has a website at:
http://www.diy-boat.com/
Regards,
Fraser Farmer
CS36 "Green-Sleeves"
Blandford, Nova Scotia
Anton,
As I may have mentioned at the CSOA meeting in Vancouver, we had a horrible
case of blisters when we purchased our CS36. She had spent several years
in the tropics which seems to bring out the worst in gel coat!. Our answer
was a drastic one, we had the gel coat peeled down to the laminate from just
above the waterline to the keel waited 4 months for the proper moisture readings
and then rebuilt the bottom with West Epoxy with micro balloons; fairing
between each layer (3) and finishing with a glaze coat to get the last flat
spots. The final process was the 20ml of West with a barrier coat additive,
applied in 6 coats, tipping out the epoxy after each roll. Sand and two coats
of ACP50 Black bottom paint and NO blisters after 4 years back in the water.
My husband and I did the bottom ourselves after the boatyard said West would
be 'too hard to do'. Bull feathers! We had the bare hull surveyed before
painting it and passed with flying colors.
There is life after blisters. Happy sailing.
Mary Ellen Spinar
Wind Dancer CS36
Dick, what yard did the work...promise won't mention your name...my 33 has
had blisters ...same amount for many,many years now and yards I talk to say
not worth going at them ...I still don't like have anything on the bottom
of old blue Heron...Thanks for your great input..Mike
Today I received a message about this company. They will be introducing a
method to prevent the common osmosis type blistering at IBEX. The method
they use is a chemical treatment that makes the fiberglass hull chemically
inert. No barrier coat is needed to prevent blistering. I am representing
AeroHydro at IBEX and will investigate this. I thought club members with
blister problems might want to check out this website. Bill Sill To learn
more about the HYAB OsmoCure process, please visit our web site at
http://www.osmocure.com |
Props for a CS34 12/29/97
Here's more grist for the mill. Two months ago I purchased a 2 bladed MAXPROP
from PYI in Edmonds, Wash for our 1991 CS34 (displacement of about 11,000
lbs). The boat has a 20hp Yanmar diesel with a 1 inch drive shaft. Previously
I have used a 2 bladed 16 * 12 fixed Martek and a 16 * 11 folding Martek
prop.
The installation was relatively easy. The removal of the fixed prop was done
without a puller as it was off 6 months earlier. The taper and thread on
the end of the shaft is the same for all of these props. However, the maxprop
envelopes the end of the shaft and I had to cut about an inch off the end
of the shaft and also drill a small hole through the shaft for a cotter pin.
Both of these mods are easy because the shaft is fairly soft. Anyone with
a hacksaw and a good drill can do this themselves.
The maxprop is excellent for backing up - better than the fixed prop (the
folding prop was awful). It also works well in forward. I set it for 11.5
inches of pitch but may change it to a slightly coarser pitch. Currently,
at 2450 rpm (a sweet spot) boat speed is 6.2 knots when the bottom is clean.
Cheers,
Maarten W. Prinsze |
Replies |
CS36 Misty Gray 1/2/98
Fraser Farmer, in an email this morning told me of the web page at closereach.com
and of this list. I am impressed, what a useful resource.
To introduce myself, my wife Karen and I are one third owners of a 1982 CS
36 "Misty Gray" which we keep at Schooner Cove Marina not far from our home
in Qualicum Beach on Vancouver Island.
Yesterday after our New Year's day sail, I fell on the life line and snapped
off a stanchion. Fraser has found me a source of a new one for which I am
grateful.
There is one item about the CS36 rig that I am interested to know a solution
for. Our boat has a 153 genoa and a 110 jib. Both work on the Hood Seafurl
II furler. We find that the top third of the 110 luffs and, if there is enough
wind, thunders loudly. Placing the sheet leads forward to the end of the
track isn't enough, they would need to go a couple of feet further forward.
Once in a while when no one is looking we run the sheets through the docking
cleats which are nearly far enough forward.
One owner here suggested that we get the sail recut. He said that worked
for him. I think he had a higher clew put in. I suppose that might work but
my hunch is that it wouldn't really solve the problem. Have others had/solved
this problem? I have it figured that the real solution is to add some track
and a car further forward of the existing track but I am reluctant to add
a toe stubber and spoil the nice job CS did with recessing the existing track
by adding another that would not be recessed ahead of it.
Cheers!
Ken Walker |
Replies
This may be too simplistic, but I get pretty good control of the upper sail
area by adjusting the leech line. My 1984 CS36 (Solitaire) may have a track
that goes further forward than yours but I doubt it. I can't say there is
never any luffing, after tightening the leech line, but it is markedly reduced.
My sails may be somewhat stretched after years of use, but my sailmaker--doncha
just love that, like I could actually OWN a sailmaker;-) she's actually Hood's
sailmaker--says the sails are remarkably well preserved.
My sailing consultant--also not exactly mine--suggested cutting the bottom
of the Jib just to give better visibility to windward. So, if you start cutting,
take care of the foot as well.
Good Sailing.
John Lambdin; Solitaire __/)_
Though I'm a 33 CS'r ..I've seen much head scratching by 36 owners over track
positioning re the head sail...I recall the original owner of (84) 36 "Summer
Snow" was not pleased with the track positioning ( he had raced previous
boats) ..In the long run the tracks of S'Snow were not changed but some use
of the toe rail may have been the solution as I've heard on other 36s...The
current owner of Summer Snow , Malcolm Wilkinson indicates he is using the
original sail inventory (#1 through 3 ) and puts any poor shape down to old
sail age....Dave Miller @ North Sails in Vancouver has to my understanding
outfitted many a 36 and is definately the man to talk to here re sail cut
,ideal sheeting angles etc .....Perhaps some 36er can research this out with
Miller and get it back out ...Ian Flannery may also be a good source...
Happy New Year All ..Mike .."Blue Heron" |
Quanta Question 1/8/98
Greetings and Happy New Year from the Wilson Yacht Club on Lake Ontario,
As a new subsriber, I just wanted to throw a question out there about a Quanta
28. Given that the boat is a "kissing cousin" to a CS, are there any other
Quanta owners out there? Designed by Ray Wall, built in British Columbia
- we're seeking more information about her. Sails like a dream.
Lisa Stephens |
Replies |
Teak oil question 1/8/98
All,
I'd be interested in finding out what kind of teak oil is good for the interior
of a CS30. Unfortunately, the previous owner is not available for me to ask.
It looks great, I want to keep it that way.
Cheers,
Charlie |
Replies |
Very nice 1/10/98
People..... Nice work !!
I found this site very interesting. I've Always Liked CS Boats (O.K., O.K.
I currently own a Northern 29 but ...) . Anyway the Current CANADIAN YACHTING
magazine has a very complimentary article written by Pat Sturgeon (spelling
?) reviewing the CS36 Merlin. |
Replies |
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